Nail Lab

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Center Pocket Lifting FAQ

What is center pocket lifting?

To understand center pocket lifting, you have to understand the concept of shrinkage in acrylic technology.  The wetter something is, the more likely it will be to shrink as it dries.  With acrylic, we do want a small percentage of shrinkage which helps to form a suction cup effect around the sidewalls and cuticle area in zone 3.  

That being said, shrinkage can be excessive and have negative results when there is too much monomer in your brush.  Also, a larger or more curved nail plate can exacerbate shrinkage.  The apex is the highest part of the nail enhancement, hence the area with the most acrylic.  Shrinkage will place force on the apex and on the center of the plate.  If this force becomes excessive, the product can pop free at the apex (or center of the nail plate) – and this is “center pocket lifting.”

Why can’t I see it when I am filing, buffing and finishing the client’s nails?  

All products will shrink during polymerization. It takes a liquid & powder system 24 - 48 hours to completely cure.  The product cures to about 60% in the first hour, which leaves 40% to occur over the next few days.  The wetter the mix, the longer it takes to fully cure.  The simple reason why we cannot see the pocket lift during the filing process is because the full cure of the enhancement has not taken place.  If pocket lifting occurs; it will be evident when the client returns for a rebalance.

Why does it only happen with certain clients and not all 10 nails?

As mentioned before, the shape and size of the nail, combined with excessive shrinkage can cause center pocket lifting.  We usually see it on the thumbs and/or middle fingers (the larger fingers) of the client.  

How do I prevent pocket lifting?

Consistency is determined by the by the amount of polymer powder blended with the monomer liquid.  It is not possible to create a monomer liquid that can be used with any mix ratio.  NSI recommends using a medium wet mix for best results with our Attraction Acrylic System.  Incorrect mix ratio can increase the amount and type of service breakdown.

Medium Wet Acrylic Mix Ratio

When the mix ratio is right, the following is assured:
•    Excellent adhesion
•    Strength and toughness
•    Clarity
•    Prevention of overexposure
•    Proper set and cure times

Working Too Wet - Acrylic Mix Ratio

When the bead is too wet, the result is:
•    Potential lifting and weakness
•    Bubbles
•    Excessive shrinkage
•    Overexposure
•    Lengthened set and cure time

Working Too Dry - Acrylic Mix Ratio

When the bead is too dry, the result is:
•    Lifting
•    Weakness (lack of cohesion)
•    Bubbles

The solution to this problem is simple.  Be sure to use the recommended mix ratio for optimum results.  If you have center pocket lifting, use a slightly drier mix ratio.  This should eliminate the center pocket lift.

 

 

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