The Difference Between Acrylic & Gel: The Myths
NSI would like to dispel many of the myths that still linger in the industry regarding acrylic and gel.
Last month, we clarified the TRUE differences between acrylic and gel. This month, NSI would like to dispel many of the myths that still linger in the industry regarding acrylic and gel. Some of these myths can be damaging to our industry, so it is important to taken any advantage to educate clients about the products you put on their nails.
Acrylics are Stronger than Gels
When gels were introduced to the market, many techs experienced service breakdown which lead to the misconception that gels weren’t as strong (durable) as acrylic. It is important to understand that the breakdown they were experiencing was caused by improper application techniques, not product failure.
Some common mistakes that techs make when applying gel enhancements are:
• Too thin of an application: When using the Balance UV Gel System, NSI reccomends starting with a thin “lock-in” layer with a One-Step or Builder Gel. The next step is to build on this foundation for proper thickness and placement the apex (the cornerstone of strength for the enhancement) before finishing the enhancement.
• Using poor quality UV lamps or bulbs: All too often techs spend money on high-end gels for optimum performance, then buy the cheapest UV lamp from a no-name manufacturer at a tradeshow. UV energy is of utmost importance in ensuring a complete cure and prevention of service breakdown. Not all lamps, or bulbs for that matter, are created equally. When using gels, it is best to use a high-quality lamp from a manufacturer you know and trust. The NSI Ultra Pro Full Hand (with four 9-Watt high-output Phillips bulbs) is perfect for ensuring a proper cure for all angles. Just don’t forget to replace the bulbs every 4-6 months!
When applied properly, gel is equally as “strong” as acrylic. In fact, gel can be more resistant to cracking because of its slightly greater flexibility AND the viscosity of gels can make the proper bond more error-proof because the gel will naturally seep into all of the macro-crevices of the natural nail. Acrylic requires the tech to use a mix-ratio to achieve the proper bond. Using too-dry of a mix is a sure way to experience service breakdown with acrylic. No mix ratio is required for gel application.
Acrylics are Damaging to the Natural Nail & Gels are Not
When can we finally put this myth to rest?! 99% of damage to the natural nail is caused by techs using mechanical force during prep and application (drilling, nipping, pinching, etc.) Somewhere along the line, techs learned that the only way to get an acrylic enhancement to adhere is to excessively drill the natural nail. This is not the case!
Acrylic chemistry is similar to the chemistry used when adhering bones during surgery in the medical field. Preparation of the natural nail with moderate filing, in conjunction with primer and the proper mix ratio is enough to create a durable enhancement.
Some guidelines to live by:
• NEVER use a drill on the natural nail
• NEVER use abrasives lower than 180 Grit on the natural nail
Acrylics are Chemicals and Gels are Not
This myth probably stemmed from the fact that acrylic liquid releases an odor and gels do not. Monomer’s odor is directly related to the evaporation rate of a particular ingredient (vapor caused by evaporation releases the odor). Gels do not have an evaporation rate, so there is no odor. This does not mean that gel isn’t a chemical.
Oligomers are the structure and backbone of gels and they are used in many other fields other than the nail industry. Chemical Engineers often call oligomers “liquid polymers.” We all know what polymers are, right?
The fact that acrylics and gels are chemicals is not a bad thing. Fear-based marketing has lead consumers to believe that all chemicals are bad and “all natural” is good. The human body relies on chemicals to survive, so they can’t be all bad. As a matter of fact, the bulk of the human body is made up of one particular chemical; water or H2O.
Gels are Healthier than Acrylics
A long time ago a rumor started that acrylics could cause cancer and it spread like wild fire. Through persistence and education, the nail industry has been able to overcome this misconception; however the myth still lingers.
Acrylic chemistry has proven to be non-carcinogenic and similar chemical components are used in the biomedical and dental industries. If the chemistry is safe for inside the body, then certainly it can be used externally on the nail beds!
Both gel and acrylic products are safe if used according to the manufacturer’s guidelines. For example, drinking an 8 Oz. glass of nail liquid wouldn’t be prudent, but properly mixing it with powder and placing it on the nail bed won’t be hazardous to your health.