NSInail systems international

NSI wants to set the record straight on the REAL scientific differences between acrylic and gel.

Want to see something interesting?  Type “the difference between acrylic and gel” in Google and see what comes up.  Most of the entries that pop up (and there are MANY) are from message boards where consumers are looking for answers.  You’ll be astonished about how much misinformation is out there. NSI wants to set the record straight on the REAL scientific differences between acrylic and gel.

Application – Mix Ratio vs. No Mix Ratio

Acrylic is a two part system which combines liquid (monomer) and powder (polymer). 

Each acrylic system has an optimum mix ratio (the ratio of liquid to powder).  For example, the Attraction Acrylic System yields the best results when used with a medium-wet mix ratio.  The Spa Aroma-Free Acrylic System, on the other hand, must be used with a medium-dry mix. 

While achieving the proper mix ratio isn’t hard, it does take some practice, to achieve basically the same mix with different size beads. There are techniques to learn that will help tell techs if the mix ratio is correct.  It is all about the look, the feel and the color of the bead.  It should not be too shiny or have excess powder around the bead.  It should resemble that of an orange peel.  To learn more about mix ratio, you can watch the Attraction Mix Ratio video by clicking here.

Gel is a one-part system of, you guessed it…gel. 

There is no mix ratio to deal with.  The proper combination of ingredients has been taken care of by the manufacturer.  This doesn’t necessarily make gel easier to apply.  The ease of application for acrylic and gel will vary from tech to tech.  It mainly has to do with how much experience techs have with each type and how they were trained.

Odor vs. Odorless

All traditional nail liquids have a distinctive odor.  This odor comes from an important ingredient; ethyl methacrylate or EMA.  EMA is the main ingredient in all traditional professional-only, branded nail liquids and it has a high evaporation rate, which causes vapors (and thus an odor).  Additives to this ingredient, which alter working properties, are what make one brand of nail liquid different from another.

Some nail liquids are odorless; like Spa Aroma-Free Nail Liquid from NSI.  In fact, NSI created the very first odorless nail liquid back in 1987 called Secrets.  Odorless nail liquids do not contain EMA, and use other monomers in their formulations.  These monomers are non-volatile and no don’t evaporate.  Without the vapors created through evaporation, there is no odor.

Most salons in the world use traditional EMA liquids and that’s why acrylic, in general, is associated with the odor of EMA.  A big misconception in the salon industry is that the safety of a chemical is determined by the odor.  People believe if something is odorless, it is safer.  Nothing could be further from the truth.  Odor does not have a direct correlation to the safety of a chemical.  

Odor is caused by vapors stimulating the nerves in our nose.  The amount of vapor in the air is not determined by the odor.  It is determined by the evaporation rate.  Quickly evaporating liquids produce large amounts of vapors.  Some odors in a salon are more offensive than others.  Just because your brain does not like a smell does not mean it is harmful or “bad” for the technician or the client.

*Note: Some liquids still contain MMA or methyl methacrylate, but this ingredient has been banned for use in nail salons by the FDA since the mid 1970’s.  MMA liquid has a stronger odor with a slightly sweet smell, and when polymerized MMA enhancements are filed, there is an odor that is released.  NSI does not use MMA in any of their nail liquid products.

Gels do not contain EMA.  None of the other ingredients that make up a gel give off an odor either.  Because of this, gels are often found in day spas, health resorts, etc.  Many of these places are looking to achieve a place of relaxation and therapy, and while the odor of EMA liquid is not harmful, it can be perceived as unpleasant.  This fact has contributed to the myth that gels are healthier and more “high-end” than acrylics.

Curing Differences – How & When

Both acrylic and gel cure to reach their maximum durability and strength, but how and when they get there is completely different.

When liquid and powder are mixed together they activate the catalyst (BPO) to cure the product.  It only takes 3-5 minutes for the product to “set” (meaning it is hard enough to be filed and shaped).  This also equates to the amount of working time the tech has before the product is not longer pliable.

The complete polymerization process for acrylics takes some time.  This means that acrylic is more vulnerable to damage from high impact directly after a service.  When working outside the recommended mix ratio and working too wet, the cure time will lengthen, leaving the nail more vulnerable.

Gels use UV energy, not heat, as an initiator to cure.  This UV energy comes from a lamp; preferably with a minimum of one high quality 9 watt bulb.  It is best to follow the gel manufacturer’s recommendations on the amount of UV energy needed to thoroughly cure the gel.  The UV energy from the lamp creates the free radicals within the gel and starts the polymerization process.  Because gels don’t begin to cure until they are placed in the lamp, they have an unlimited amount of working time.  This could be a blessing or a curse, depending on how you look at it.  Perfectionists may find unlimited working time to be maddening.   

The complete polymerization process for gels goes much more quickly than with acrylics.  Each gel brand has its own optimum cure time, but most require around 2 minutes in a UV lamp.  Once the gel is exposed to UV energy for those 2 minutes, it is 99% cured.  The 1% remaining is the uncured tacky layer of gel, which can be removed by using Cleanse by NSI.  Therefore, gels do not have the same vulnerability period as acrylics.

*Note: We can’t stress enough how important it is to routinely change the bulbs in your UV lamp.  Just because the blue light comes on, doesn’t mean that UV energy is being emitted.  Under-curing gels will negatively affect its performance and can lead to product overexposure for your client.