NSInail systems international

Acrylic and Tip Overlay with Attraction Pink Masque Powder

It is estimated that one out of every four persons bites their nails.  With that staggering statistic, it is safe to say that every nail technician has a client who bites their nails.  Bitten nails can be challenging for a nail tech, but using the right products will make all of the difference in the world.  Follow the steps below and watch the dramatic transformation from beyond-short, ragged nails to stunning pink and white enhancements.

The first step to any nail enhancement service is natural nail preparation.  This begins with spraying your hands and client’s hands with Sanitize.  Using your fingertip, transfer a very small amount of Vanish to each cuticle and gently massage.  Using a disinfected, stainless steel cuticle pusher, gently push back the eponychium, which is living tissue.  Using a curette, or similar implement, remove the cuticle from nail plate.  Wipe off excess Vanish using a Nail Wipe  moistened with Cleanses.  Remove the shine from the natural nail by lightly buffing the surface with an Endurance 180/180 Grit File and shape the natural nail to a rounded free edge.  Finally, apply Nailpure Plus using a Nail Wipe and rub into the natural nail, sidewalls, lateral folds, and under the free edge to remove dust, oil, moisture, and contaminants. 

Apply an Elation Natural Nail Tip.  The nail plate must be exposed as much as possible to create a greater surface area for product application. Observe where the pressure is being applied to the nail tip along the sidewall line. This is where the skin on a nail biter is the most puffy and callused. This is the area of the tip that needs to be arched out with small cuticle scissors or a file.  Taking out a small arch will relieve pressure at the stress point and allows the tip to be securely placed against the nail plate. Cut, file and blend. Reapply Nailpure Plus and apply Attract (Acid-Free) Primer liberally. 

Step 1:  Using Attraction Pink Masque Powder, start in zone 3 using a medium-wet mix ratio.  Pink Masque is a unique powder that is used to camouflage and hide any imperfections in the natural nail.  It can also create the illusion of longer looking nail beds by extending the smile line beyond the natural free edge line.  Place the bead near, but not touching, the cuticle.  Press it from side to side to get coverage.  Pull and brush the bead into zone 2 until it has been thinned and has a grainy appearance.

Step 2: Continue using a medium-wet mix.  Consistent mix ratio is very important when using Pink Masque to avoid a marbling effect.  Place another bead of powder on the area of zone 2 that was thinned down and press the bead from side to side to get coverage. Pull and brush the bead into zone 1 until it has been thinned and has a grainy appearance. 

Step 3: Using Attraction Radiant White Powder, continue working with a medium-wet mix ratio.  Place the bead in the middle of zone 1 creating your smile line away from the natural free edge line.  The goal should be to create a deep smile line that will give more shape and dimension to the nail.  You will need to create a consistent free edge line instead of following the bitten nail line.  This will help to elongate the look of the nail and make an enormous difference between a natural looking nail and an “artificial” nail.  Using the tip of the brush, lightly press from side to side to evenly distribute the product.  By using gentle pressing, pushing and guiding techniques, you can create deeper corners.  Smooth down the acrylic over the extension edge.

Step 4: Overlay the entire enhancement with a thin layer of Attraction Totally Clear Powder, using a medium-wet mix ratio.  File and shape with an Endurance 180/180 Grit File.  Clean the nail using a Nail Wipe saturated with Cleanse.

Step 5: For a high gloss, long-lasting shine, apply Glaze ‘n Go and cure for 90 seconds in any 9-Watt UV lamp.  Finally, condition the cuticle with Nurture Oil. 

The first set of nail enhancements is only the beginning of successful growth for nail biters.  A new set of nail enhancements on bitten nails should be filled-in one week after the first application.  Bi-weekly re-fills should be scheduled after their second appointment.  Recommend Nurture Oil as at-home nail care to help eliminate rough, torn cuticles and keep nail enhancements flexible and strong.