Troubleshooting Traditional Gels
This reference guide will help you spot problems on your own and quickly remedy them so you can provide the very best service to your clients.
PROBLEM: No arch
POSSIBLE EXPLANATION:
• Improper prep. SOLUTION: Be sure to remove excess cuticle from the nail plate and properly cleanse and dehydrate the surface. Watch our natural nail step-by-step video for more details.
• Applying product to close to cuticle, eponychium or side walls. SOLUTION: Leave a tiny margin around the cuticle and side walls.
• Curing issues. SOLUTION: First make sure you are curing in a lamp that is suitable for the gel system you are using. It is best to work with the lamp from the same manufacturer as the gel system. Replace your bulbs every three to six months routinely, based on usage. If using tips or forms make sure they are clear so the UV energy can penetrate to ensure a complete cure.
PROBLEM: No arch
POSSIBLE EXPLANATION:
• Not enough gel at the apex. SOLUTION: Apply a bead of Builder or Body Builder Gel in Zone 2 and allow it to self-level. The thicker the gel, the less it will flatten out. Regulate the temperature in the salon. If it is too hot, then the gels will be more viscous and it will be harder to maintain the arch.
PROBLEM: No C-Curve
POSSIBLE EXPLANATION:
• Improper fit with the nail form. SOLUTION: If the form is applied correctly (see form fitting techniques in another Trick of the Trade) then no pinching should be needed. Pinching can damage the natural nail and should be avoided.
PROBLEM: Dull Shine
POSSIBLE EXPLANATION:
• Applying finishing gel too thin. SOLUTION: If a finishing gel, like Finish Clear, is applied too thin, you may see dull patches on the nail. Applying with a thicker coat will allow you to achieve that glossy, protective coat.
• Curing issues. SOLUTION: If you applying the gel thick enough and still not seeing a high shine, check your lamp. Again, it is best to use the lamp recommended with your gel system. Also, make sure it isn’t time to replace your bulbs.
PROBLEM: Removing Traditional Gels
POSSIBLE EXPLANATION:
• Using the wrong abrasive. SOLUTION: Traditional gels are impervious to solvents and must be filed off. Start with an Endurance 100/100 Grit File to take off the bulk of the gel. It is very abrasive and will rapidly reduce the product without a lot of physical effort. Move to a less abrasive file, like an Endurance 180/180 Grit File to remove the product completely. This will eliminate damage to the natural nail.